Tuesday, August 31, 2010

SANTORINI & RHODES ISLANDS, GREECE

August 22 & 23, 2010

This morning we spotted many flocks of Scopoli's Shearwaters and a few Balearic Shearwaters, en route to Santorini Island!

Numerous islands lie offshore from the 15,000 km-long-coastline, including those along the west (Mediterranean) coast known as the Ionian Islands (including Corfu), those sprinkled across the Aegean known as the Cyclades, those along the Turkish coast known as the Dodecanese (including Lesbos and Rhodes) and Crete. On previous voyages in the summers of 2008 and 2009, we enjoyed visits to many of these islands.

The island of Santorini is perhaps the most breathtaking of all the Greek Islands. It has been said that the sunsets in Santorini are the best in the world. Around 1500 BC, a volcanic eruption destroyed the center of the island, leaving a crescent shaped rim of cliffs around a harbor formed in the volcano's caldera. As we only had a few hours to spend on Santorini, we opted to take photographs of the many blue domed buildings.

On the island of Rhodes, we hired a taxi and headed to "Butterfly Valley." Strictly speaking this should be called "Moth Valley," as each summer it is used as a gathering place by millions of a brightly colored moth, the Jersey Tiger, Euplagia quadripunctaria. They gather here because the valley has a permanent spring and is therefore the coolest and moistest place in high summer on an island which is otherwise dry and arid. From all over the island, and perhaps, from Turkey, too, the moths fly to roost on the damp rock faces. They stay huddled in aestivation (the summer equivalent of hibernation) until autumn. Then, they mate, fly out lay their eggs and finally die. July and August are the best months to see this most extraordinary wildlife event. The park is every well laid out with trails that meander through a rich broadleaf forest. A few Great and Blue Tits were about in the woods, along with a bathing Eurasian Jay.

Rhodes is the jewel in the Dodecanese crown. Its Old Town with its labyrinthine back streets and Mediaeval fortifications is a World Heritage listed sight. We spent the remainder of our time on the island wandering the back streets of the Knights' Quarters. The Knights were divided into seven "tongues" or languages, according to their place of origin — England, France, Germany, Italy, Aragon, Auvergne and Provence— and each was responsible for protecting a section of the bastion. The Grand Master, who was in charge, lived in the palace, and each tongue was under the auspices of the bailiff.

To this day the Avenue of the Knights exudes a noble and forbidding aura, despite the modern offices now occupying most of the inns. These lofty buildings stretch in a 600m-long unbroken wall of honey-colored blocks, and its flat facade is punctuated by huge doorways and arched windows.

Soon it was time to board our sailing ship for the Egyptian coast.

Debi Shearwater
On board the Star Clipper
Famous Ports of the Ancient World Voyage


Sunday, August 29, 2010

Famous Ports of the Ancient World

August 20 - 21, 2010: Embarkation Piraeus, Greece & Sailing in the Aegean Sea

Howdy, Adventurers,

Greetings from Athens, Greece where my friend, Don and I are enjoying a wonderful morning visit to the Acropolis. Only a short walk from our hotel, we enjoyed a few birds along the way— Spotted Flycatcher, Sardinian Warbler, Blue Tit and Magpies. Alpine Swifts zoomed overhead once we reached the top of the hill. Don spotted a Hoopoe, flailing away with its bill on the ground below us. We enjoyed visiting the new museum during the hottest part of the day. 

Late afternoon found us at the port of Piraeus, ready to embark the tall ship, Star Clipper, our home for the next two weeks. The Star Clipper is a stunning sailing ship built in 1992. She has 36,000 square feet of sails and a mast 226 feet high. She is beautifully trimmed in brass and wood. We are sailing to the picturesque island of Santorini, Greece.

At sea on the Famous Ports of the Ancient World sailing voyage,
Debi Shearwater

Debra Shearwater
Shearwater Journeys, Inc.
PO Box 190
Hollister, CA 95024
831.637.8527

South Georgia: Oct 18 - Nov 4; Antarctica, South Georgia & Falkland Islands: Nov 4 - 22, 2010





Friday, August 20, 2010

It's Greek to me!

Howdy, Seabirders,

Dispatches from Athens, Greece — I am currently in Athens where my Google pages are coming up in the Greek language! So, I'm having some trouble posting the trip reports from the August 11, 13 and 15 trips. It might have to wait until I return home.

This afternoon, I'm setting sail on the "Star Clipper" for a voyage of the "Famous Ports of the Ancient World."

As soon as I can get an English version, I will post more. Meanwhile, we are off to the Acropolis this morning.

Shearwaters forever,
Debi Shearwater

Saturday, August 14, 2010

TRIP REPORT: AUGUST 8, 2010 FARALLON ISLANDS


Howdy, Seabirders,

Shearwater Journeys' pelagic trip departing from Emeryville, California to the Farallon Islands on August 8, 2010 was a huge success! The Farallon Islands lie 28 miles off the coast of San Francisco and about 20 miles south of Point Reyes. The islands are sometimes called the "Galapagos of California" since they host the largest breeding seabird colonies south of Alaska on the West Coast of the United States. These unique islands comprise the Gulf of the Farallones National Marine Sanctuary.

U.S. Fish and Wildlife Image

On our ride out to the islands, we pass many San Francisco landmarks.
Bay Bridge, (C) Don Doolittle
Alcatraz Island, (C) Don Doolittle

Landing on the islands is not permitted, as this would greatly disturb the breeding seabirds and marine mammals. From our vessel, we were able to see and hear the thousands and thousands of seabirds going to and from their nesting sites. The sounds alone were quite incredible!
Hundreds of Pigeon Guillemots were whistling, while Tufted Puffins landed on the rocky ledges. Cormorants and hundreds of Common Murres were busy carrying food to their young.

Breeding Common Murre colony, (C) Don Doolittle


One of thousands of Common Murres, (C) Don Doolittle


One of hundreds of Pigeon Guillemots, (C) Don Doolittle

The "prize" bird of the day, Tufted Puffin, (C) Don Doolittle

US Fish & Wildlife image, Southeast Farallon Island.

The biologists' house, (C) Don Doolittle

A Rhinoceros Auklet, (C) Don Doolittle

After watching the nesting seabirds, we head offshore, reaching the edge of the Continental Shelf. Here, we encounter our first Black-footed Albatrosses, (C) Don Doolittle.

Migrating Pink-footed Shearwaters follow our boat, (C) Don Doolittle.

Our "prize" and surprise of the day— a male ORCA, one of three that we spot, (C) Don Doolittle.

Returning to Emeryville, under the Golden Gate Bridge, (C) Don Doolittle.
Below, the San Francisco skyline, (C) Don Doolittle.

We would like to thank the many participants who came from near and far for this special Shearwater Journeys' trip. We have a 100% success rate on our trips for finding the Tufted Puffins. Many thanks to Golden Gate Audubon Society, as well. The leaders for this day were Steve Howell, Alan Hopkins, Wes Fritz, Don Doolittle and Debi Shearwater.

The complete species list for the August 8, 2010 Shearwater Journeys' Farallon Islands trip follows:

BLACK-FOOTED ALBATROSS- 18
NORTHERN FULMAR- 2
SOOTY SHEARWATER- 75
PINK-FOOTED SHEARWATER- 30
ASHY STORM-PETREL- 12
BROWN PELICAN- +
BRANDT'S CORMORANT- +
DOUBLE-CRESTED CORMORANT- +
PELAGIC CORMORANT- +
RED-NECKED PHALAROPE- 30
RED PHALAROPE- 8
JAEGER SP. -1
HEERMANN'S GULL- +
CALIFORNIA GULL- +
WESTERN GULL- +
GLAUCOUS-WINGED GULL- 1
ELEGANT TERN- 40
COMMON/ARCTIC TERN- 1
CASPIAN TERN- 4
FORSTER'S TERN- 12
COMMON MURRE- 1800
PIGEON GUILLEMOT- 300
CASSIN'S AUKLET- 28
RHINOCEROS AUKLET- 8
TUFTED PUFFIN- 18
CALIFORNIA SEA LION- +
BLUE WHALE- 2
FIN WHALE- 2?
HUMPBACK WHALE- 6
KILLER WHALE/ORCA- 3, (2 adult males, 1 female type)
HARBOR PORPOISE- 22

Puffins forever,

Debi Shearwater



Thursday, August 12, 2010

TRIP REPORT: AUGUST 6, 2010 MONTEREY BAY


Howdy, Seabirders,

Shearwater Journeys' first of the fall season pelagic trip from Monterey Bay on August 6, 2010 was a smashing success! Near perfect sea conditions allowed us to get some 20+ miles offshore. Skies were overcast the entire day which makes for optimal viewing conditions. Seabirds,
dolphins and whales were in view for the entire day. Something to look at every minute!

Highlights included a banded LAYSAN ALBATROSS, a GRAND SLAM on all of the JAEGERS + SOUTH POLAR SKUA, great views of a XANTUS' MURRELET sitting on the water, good numbers of SABINE'S GULLS, and both BLUE and HUMPBACK WHALES. At the point where we turned to head back to the harbor, Steve Howell spotted a single, very distant COOK'S PETREL arcing above and below the horizon.

Steve Howell spotted this Xantus' Murrelet, below. (C) Steve Howell.
The Long-tailed Jaeger show was incredible, with as many as a dozen hovering over the boat at any one time. (C) Steve Howell.
Below, a Long-tailed Jaeger pursues a South Polar Skua! (C) Steve Howell.

Humpback Whales put on quite a show, with tail-slapping behavior captured by Abe Borker, (C).




We would like to thank all of the participants who came from near and far for making our day a success. The leaders for this trip were: Jennifer Green, Clay Kempf, Brian Sullivan, Steve Howell, Abe Borker, Robin Welch and Debi Shearwater.

The complete species list for the August 6, 2010 Shearwater Journeys' pelagic trip follows:

LAYSAN ALBATROSS- 1, banded
BLACK-FOOTED ALBATROSS- 34 to 54, 1 banded bird
*COOK'S PETREL- 1, very distant
PINK-FOOTED SHEARWATER- 28
BULLER'S SHEARWATER- 3 to 4
SOOTY SHEARWATER- 675
BROWN PELICAN- 48
BRANDT'S CORMORANT- 495
PELAGIC CORMORANT- 13
BLACK TURNSTONE- 3, on the CG Breakwater
SURFBIRD- 5, on the CG Breakwater
RED-NECKED PHALAROPE- 125
RED-NECKED/RED PHALAROPE- 50
RED PHALAROPE- 56
SOUTH POLAR SKUA- 2
POMARINE JAEGER- 5
LONG-TAILED JAEGER- 38
JAEGER SP.- 16
HEERMANN'S GULL- 60
CALIFORNIA GULL- 40
WESTERN GULL- 135
SABINE'S GULL- 69
ELEGANT TERN- 4
COMMON/ARCTIC TERN- 4
CASPIAN TERN- 4
COMMON MURRE- 180
PIGEON GUILLEMOT- 21
XANTUS' MURRELET- 2
CASSIN'S AUKLET- 73
RHINOCEROS AUKLET- 9
CALIFORNIA SEA LION- 250
BLUE WHALE- 4
HUMPBACK WHALE- 28
NORTHERN RIGHT WHALE DOLPHIN- 160
BOTTLENOSE DOLPHIN- 2, off Cannery Row
RISSO'S DOLPHIN- 150
PACIFIC WHITE-SIDED DOLPHIN- 80
DALL'S PORPOISE- 3
OCEAN SUNFISH- 1
BLUE SHARK- 1

Shearwaters forever,
Debi Shearwater

Long-tailed Jaeger image, (C) Abe Borker.

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

COOK'S PETRELS

Howdy, Seabirders,

I hope that you will enjoy Martijn Verdoes' stitched image, below, of Cook's Petrels from Shearwater Journeys' July 31, 2010 pelagic trip off Half Moon Bay. This was a very exciting moment! In total, we saw four individual Cook's Petrels— two in San Mateo County and two in San Francisco County. Great news for those county birders who were on board! County Birding is a growing sport in California.

We have heard from the Cook's Petrel experts in New Zealand. They say that the petrels we are observing breed on Little Barrier Island, rather than Codfish Island. Sandy Bartle and Matt Rayner report that the population of 300,000 + petrels has improved from 10% to 70% in recent years due to the removal of mammalian predators on the breeding island! The New Zealanders predict that we will be finding more and more Cook's Petrels in coming years!


BirdLife International lists Cook's Petrels as Vulnerable because of rapid declines in the past. Let's hope that there is cause for celebration in the future for this species!

Rock on, Cook's Petrels,

Debi Shearwater

Monday, August 2, 2010

SeabirdingQueen sent you a video: "Spoon-billed Sandpiper (Calidris pygmeus) @ Chukotka, Russian Far East"

YouTube help center | e-mail options | report spam

SeabirdingQueen has shared a video with you on YouTube:

Incredible video of a displaying male Spoon-billed Sandpiper!
Displaying male Spoon-billed Sandpiper somewhere in Chukotka on June 13th 2010. Filmed with a Canon EOS 500D through a Swarovski AT80 HD. Kitlens 18-55mm handheld through 25-50x W eyepiece. This stunning male failed to find a female.
© 2010 YouTube, LLC
901 Cherry Ave, San Bruno, CA 94066

Sunday, August 1, 2010

TRIP REPORT: JULY 31, 2010 HALF MOON BAY


Howdy, Seabirders,

This is a trip report for Shearwater Journey's July 31, 2010 pelagic trip departing from Half Moon Bay, California. Our first trip of the fall pelagic season was a tremendous success! Highlights of the day included: 4 COOK'S PETRELS; 2 LAYSAN and 75 BLACK-FOOTED ALBATROSSES; 135 PINK-FOOTED and 7 to 10,000 SOOTY SHEARWATERS; 50 ASHY STORM-PETRELS; 2 SOUTH POLAR SKUAS; 2 POMARINE and 45 LONG-TAILED JAEGERS; 15 SABINE'S GULLS; 14 ARCTIC TERNS; 503 COMMON MURRES; 15 PIGEON GUILLEMOTS; 1 MARBLED MURRELET; 301 CASSIN'S and 12 RHINOCEROS AUKLETS and 1 TUFTED PUFFIN. The cetacean show was quite spectacular with lunge feeding BLUE and HUMPBACK WHALES and bow-riding PACIFIC WHITE-SIDED and NORTHERN RIGHT WHALE DOLPHINS.

After a week of flat, calm seas, the wind picked up 48 hours prior to our departure. The shelf waters were quite doable. On the shelf, at about 50 fathoms, we found thousands and thousands of shearwaters, dolphins and whales, feeding on krill. Cassin's Auklets were so stuffed with krill that they could barely get airborne. However, once we dropped off the edge of the Continental Shelf, we were confronted with some large swells. We made it out to the PIONEER CANYON, as deep as 400 fathoms. We found fewer species offshore. The prize was the Cook's Petrels. The first Cook's was spotted by veteran San Mateo County birder, Ron Thorn. It was a life bird, and of course, a county bird for Ron, as well as many others on board! Alas, the Cook's Petrels did not pass close enough to the boat for photographs. The tufted puffin was a fly-by, while the alternate plumaged marbled murrelet was just outside of the harbor.

The steely-blue coloration and tiny dorsal fin of one of six Blue Whales which we saw, feeding on masses of krill on the Continental Shelf. Image by Don Doolittle.

Cook's Petrels have made a big show this year. See Shearwater's Journeys. Given the numbers that were found at the Davidson Seamount by Peter Pyle and Abe Borker, I expect that we will continue finding these petrels on our upcoming trips. Trips that seem especially likely to turn up Cook's Petrels include: August 11 Bodega Bay; August 13 & 15 Fort Bragg; September 11 Monterey; September 13, 17 & 18 Half Moon Bay. Please sign up as soon as possible.


One Laysan Albatross followed our boat for over four hours!

COUNTY BIRDERS had a field day! County birding in California is a growing passion. We spent a fair amount of time in SAN FRANCISCO COUNTY! The following species were seen in both SAN MATEO and SAN FRANCISCO COUNTIES: Cook's Petrel, Laysan and Black-footed Albatrosses; Northern Fulmar; Pink-footed and Sooty Shearwaters; Ashy Storm-Petrel; Red Phalarope; South Polar Skua; Long-tailed Jaeger; Sabine's Gull; Arctic Tern; Common Murre; Cassin's and Rhinoceros Auklets. Found in San Mateo County only: Red-necked Phalarope; Elegant Tern, Marbled Murrelet and Tufted Puffin. Found in San Francisco County only: Pomarine Jaeger. The county birders had a terrific day, adding new species to their lists.

Our route was as plotted, below:

The marine mammal show was simply awesome. Clouds of krill balls reddened the surface. Lunge-feeding blue and humpback whales with their mouths wide open, throat pleats distended were an astounding sight. The dolphins put on a great show! Apparently, the presence of red whale poop was new for some folks, including our skipper. It is red because of the krill that they consume. Three very large OCEAN SUNFISH were a treat, as were a couple of HARBOR PORPOISES and two STELLER'S SEA LIONS.

We thank all of the birders who joined us on our initial fall trip who traveled from near and far, including from Italy, The Netherlands and Switzerland. We also thank Denise Wight and her students. The leaders for this trip were: Peter Pyle, Gerry McChesney, Wes Fritz, Matt Brady and Debi Shearwater.

The complete species list, including the county lists, follows:

SAN MATEO/SAN FRANCISCO
PACIFIC LOON- 1/0
COMMON LOON- 1/0
WESTERN/CLARK'S GREBE- 1/0
LAYSAN ALBATROSS- 1/1
BLACK-FOOTED ALBATROSS- 40/35
NORTHERN FULMAR- 25/25
COOK'S PETREL- 2/2
PINK-FOOTED SHEARWATER- 50/85
SOOTY SHEARWATER- 7-10,000/70
ASHY STORM-PETREL- 10/50
BROWN PELICAN- 5/1
BRANDT'S CORMORANT- 5/0
DOUBLE-CRESTED CORMORANT- 1/0
PELAGIC CORMORANT- 1/0
SURF SCOTER- 1/0
WILLET- 10/0
BLACK OYSTERCATCHER- 3/0
BLACK TURNSTONE- 8/0
SURFBIRD- 12/0
BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT HERON- 1/0
RED-NECKED PHALAROPE- 50
RED PHALAROPE- 28/2
SOUTH POLAR SKUA- 1/1
POMARINE JAEGER- 0/2
LONG-TAILED JAEGER- 15/30
HEERMANN'S GULL- 180/1
CALIFORNIA GULL- 200/40
WESTERN GULL- 300/100
SABINE'S GULL- 6/8
ELEGANT TERN- 1/0
ARCTIC TERN- 4/10
COMMON MURRE- 500/3
PIGEON GUILLEMOT- 15/0
MARBLED MURRELET- 1/0
CASSIN'S AUKLET- 300/1
RHINOCEROS AUKLET- 10/2
TUFTED PUFFIN- 1/0
CALIFORNIA SEA LION- 15
STELLER'S SEA LION- 2
HARBOR SEAL- 1
BLUE WHALE- 6, including one very small one
HUMPBACK WHALE- 24
NORTHERN RIGHT WHALE DOLPHIN- 50
PACIFIC WHITE-SIDED DOLPHIN- 150
HARBOR PORPOISE- 2
OCEAN SUNFISH- 3 very large, + 2 small

Nothing like starting off the fall pelagic season with a big bang! Jump on board, before the trip that you want is sold out.

Shearwaters forever,

Debi Shearwater